SyncFix64 v1.1

Following the first prototype of the LM1881 based SyncFix64 I made a few minor changes, improving the schematics and layout. Then I was ready to order the first batch of properly manufactured PCBs. The boards took a little over two weeks for production and shipping.

This was also my first try at ordering a v-cut PCB panel and I’m quite satisfied with the result considering the resulting low price per unit. I assembled one of the boards tonight and the device is working properly. So I assume the whole batch should be fine.

The project files for the updated version 1.1 of the SyncFix64 are available on Github and here is the list of required components:

C1,C2,C3 0805 100n
Q1,Q2 SOT-23 BSS138
R1 0805 100r
R2 0805 680k
R3 0805 10k
U1 SOIC-8 LM1881
U2 SOT-223-3 AMS1117-50
C4,C5 1206 22µF

Update: There are German assembly instructions available for download now.



7 thoughts on “SyncFix64 v1.1

  1. I have a few kits left over and some more PCBs. Please send me an email if you are still interested. Shipping costs might be an issue though, depending on where you are from.

  2. I have received your email but I could not reply because Hotmail has (wrongfully) blacklisted my mail server. I have requested to be removed from the blacklist but that will take time. Alternatively, if you have another (non-Microsoft) email account you could email me again. Sorry about that.

  3. Pingback: SyncFix64 Revisited – What about the VIC-20? |

  4. Hi, I have build your syncFix using throw hole component on a protoboard to connect my c64 to a cheap parking TFT monitor.
    To avoid to use 12 volt to supply the TFT monitor I have removed the DC to DC converter (in my case a XL1509 ) from the TFT pcb.
    I have slightly modified your schematic:
    – removed R3 10k
    – change R2 680k with 1k
    After this changes the screen is very clear and and works fine with my c64.
    I have not yet tested it with my vic20 because of I have to build an AV cable but I will try

  5. Hello.
    I have a PAL C64C (Shortboard) with an RF Modulator replacement circuit.
    There was a dark bar across the screen with the default components, looking a bit like interference.
    Having looked at the LM 1881 datasheet, it would appear that adjusting R2 fixes this problem (related with frequency).
    I used a 1M pot to tune out the bar in place of R2, then soldered in a permanent SMT resistor. In my case, this ended being a 470k ohm one.

    It works fine now.

  6. I haven’t had these issues myself but others might have. Good to know that there is a solution. Thanks for your feedback!

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